Replacing this door hades is very similar in GMC and Chevrolet. These door handles are very similar on many vehicles from 1995 – 2019. 

Time 

I have changed a few of these and I can change these in about 30 minutes. Allow yourself a bit more time because there is a bracket behind the door handle that doesn’t require force to get into place. But, it can be a bit tricky to angle the bracket so that it just slides on. You don’t have to be a pro to replace this handle. 

This guide may feel long but I just tried to cover question if you have any. 

Tools Needed

• Sockets
  • 10mm
  • 8mm some vehicles will use this size, this particular vehicle didn’t need it.
• Ratchet
• Ratchet Extension
• Flat Blade Screwdriver
• Hex Head Screwdriver
• Picks
  • Straight
  • 90 degree
  • Hook
• Helpful tools
  • Long Reach Needle Nose Pliers
  • Magnet Pickup Tool

Step #1

Remove The Window handle

This can be a bit tricky. But, just you can see in the pictures that you just have to locate the metal clip behind. Using the a 90 degree or hook pick you simple pull the metal clip out. 

Step #2

Remove The Door Panel Parts

This is the majority of the job so step one will technically be broken down in multiple steps.

#1

Remove the Top Left Plastic Moulding

This molding is a bit cut out of this picture. But when looking at the door you will know exactly what I am talking about. I will also place a link here. To be honest I haven’t broken any of these, but I have seen these broken a few times. This moulding uses a plastic metal clip to hold them into place. 

Simple pull out from the top to snap out of place. 

Link to Picture and Replacement.

Left Hand

Right Hand

Remove the 2 10mm bolts in the arm rest

Remove the hex screws

• One at the bottom outer corner
• One at the top on the panel under the plastic moulding
• Two at the door handle
  • One screw is under a small plastic cover

#2

Remove the two plastic retainers

These do tend to break very often but are reusable. They are inexpensive and available at most auto parts stores if they break. Here is a link to these retainers. (please note sizes may be different but you can use this picture as reference)

Step #3

Removing the Door Panel

Once we remove all the bolts and plastic fasteners (usually only two). The panel should come off easily. To remove simply pull the entire panel up then towards you. The picture shows you the rear of the panel so that you can see where all the places it can catch. If you feel it getting caught somewhere, just refer to the picture. It shouldn’t require much force.

Step #4

Here we are going to remove 2 10mm nuts and 1 10mm bolt. 

First

There are 2 plastic covers that you have to pop off to access the nuts below (red arrows).

To remove these two covers just the flat blade screwdriver to lift an edge and pull them off.

Second 

There is a single bolt that is holding the bottom of the window track. Removing this bolt will give you so much more space when removing the handle(blue arrow)

Step #5

Let’s remove the door handle back plate.

Let’s remove a small plastic clip that connects the door handle to the door latching mechanism. This part breaks very often and is very inexpensive online. Online these clips are about $ 5.00 and the dealer will sell these about $ 25

Truthfully a bit of patients can help. I have replaced a few of these and I always find removing and putting this plate back in place a bit annoying. You Do NOT need any force, the plate comes out and goes back in at just the perfect angle (just move it around). I find going up helps (only when you are see this plate you will know exactly what I’m talking about). After removing the two 10mm nuts that were behind the plastic covers. You will now be able to remove a metal plate that holds the plastic door handle to the door.  

Step #6

Now that we remove the back plate that holds the door handle in place. We can now remove it from the door lock cylinder and completely from the door.

Once you remove the metal plate behind the door handle. The door handle will be loose. From the outside we will have to now just remove a small rod attached to the door lock. There is a small pin that holds the lock cylinder in place. A simple press with the Pick will allow you to remove it. 

Step #7

Putting Everything back together.

We basically go in reverse for all the steps. But, I will go over a few things that you may have questions about. 

#1

When Placing the new door handle in. Make sure the door lock cylinder back in completely. It will only fit oneway. As a quick tip, once the lock cylinder is in place. Hold the door handle in place and make sure that the key works to lock and unlock the door. It is possible for the lock cylinder and rod connected to it to be in wrong.

#2

This is the annoying part. The metal plate that holds the door handle in place from the inside only fits one way and requires very little to no force to go in. It just will slide into place. This picture below Shows exactly how it should be inside the door.

#3

We will now connect the rod that is connected to the door handle to the yellow clip. All you do is close the clip over the end of the rod. No force is needed, it just snaps into place. Side note: the rod should be loose (just hanging) and easily maneuverable into the clip.

#4

Just replace the two nuts that were beneath the plastic covers (red arrows). These just go snug. Do NOT over tighten, the bolts are attached to plastic and can break.

#5

Replace the window track bolts. Again just snug.

#6

Before going any further make sure everything works. Door locks and handle.

Now we just replace the door panel. The door panel goes into place then slides down into the correct position.

#7

Replace the window handle. 

You simple place the metal clip in place and just press the window handle into place and the window handle will lock into place. On this vehicle a plastic washer was missing. But, there should be a thin plastic washer between the window handle and door panel. After this just place the top plastic moulding in place.

The post Replace Outer Door Handel On A GMC / Chevrolet appeared first on Your Free Mechanic.

Please use your best judgment before performing any work on your vehicle. Changing your own brakes can be simple but consult your local mechanic.

Time

In total this took me about about 1 hour to complete both front wheels. Allow your self more time and when ever working on brakes never rush your work.

Tools needed

• 18mm Socket
• 21mm Socket (Impact)
• 7/8 in Socket (Impact)
• C-Clamp
• Torque Wrench
• Impact Gun (or Breaker Bar)
• Breaker Bar
• Jack Stand (Never Work On Lifted Car With Out A Proper Jack Stand)
• Floor Jack

Step #1

Lift the vehicle and place a jack stand. Never work on a vehicle while it is lifted with out a jack stand. Place the jack stand so that it is holding the frame of the vehicle. 

Once lifted and you have the jack stand in place. Lower the vehicle slowly. make sure that the wheel is no longer elevated by the jack. This ensure if the floor jack fails. The wheel cannot lower possibly causing you harm.

Step #2

Remove the Wheel. The wheel cap has 8 plastic bolts that should come off easily. Do not force these.

Step #3

Remove The Two Bolts Holding The Caliper

With Caution, remove the two 18mm bolts and keep the caliper from falling and causing stress on the brake line.

Step #4

Sometimes the caliper may not slide off and you will want to force the caliper open lightly. In the Image below we are a flat blade screwdriver to force the caliper to open. Place the screwdriver in the hollow section of the rotor and apply a light prying force. The caliper will slowly open wider, allowing the caliper to come off.

Note: Be careful not to damage the rotor surface or brake pads especially if you are not planing on replacing them.  

Step #5

Tie or secure the caliper out of the way. Do not drop or allow the caliper to hang by the brake line. 

Remove the old brake pads.

NOTE! 

The brake pads may not be the same and you do not want to mix the positions. Match the old pads to the new pads and note the differences. They will usually have a small tab on one, two, or all pads. 

Step #6

Remove the Two caliper housing bolts. These may be very tight and need the breaker bar.

Remove the caliper housing.

Step #7

Remove the Rotor

The rotor may have two tabs that are holding them to the hub. These are taken off by lightly pulling them while turning. 

With the Rotor and Caliper removed everything should look like this.

Step # 8

After cleaning the new rotor with brake cleaner. Place the new rotor onto the hub and replace the two rotor tabs, these just push into place.

Step # 9

Replace the brake pad metal slide on to the caliper housing. You may need a flat blade screwdriver to slide these off. (Red Arrows in image)

These will almost always come in a new set of brakes. 

These slides are different from one another. Make sure you place the correct ones where they belong. These will some times fit in the wrong positions. While they may seem like they fit, they can rub against the rotor causing damage or a rubbing noise. If this happens you will have to almost redo the entire brake Job. (Blue Arrow in image)

Step # 10

With the brake pad slides and rotor in place. Place the housing back onto the knuckle and tighten the two 22mm bolts. Look up the torque specs to your specific vehicle. 

These are usually very tight. In this vehicle we are at about 100 foot pounds. 

Now place the brake pads in the correct position. 

Some times the pads may be a bit difficult to get into place. They should not need any force. but if you need to use a screwdriver to guide the pads, do not force the brake pad. 

Step # 11

You will probably have to open the caliper further to fit the new brake pads. 

Using the old brake pads and the c-clamp slowly apply pressure to force open the caliper. 

Don’t use the new pads.

Open the caliper slowly and pay attention so that you stop when the caliper stops opening. Its best just to open the caliper only as much as you need. You don’t usually have to go 100%

Step # 12

Now Place the caliper over the new brakes and take care as to not damage the rubber boots that go over the caliper bolts.

New sets of brakes will sometimes come with new lubricant for floating/sliding calipers. Clean, reapply the lubricant, and replace the two 18mm caliper bolts. 

These usually don’t as tight as the caliper bracket bolts. But, on this vehicle these have a torque spec of 100 foot pounds.

Step #13

Replace the wheel and Torque your wheels to the manufacture specs. 

On this vehicle they should be torqued in a star pattern (tightening every lug nut across from one another)

The wheel cap uses plastic bolts. Do not use an impact to tighten these. With just the 7/8 socket in had you should be able to tighten these enough. You will feel them fall into place, almost a click.

Step # 14 

Test driving. 

BEFORE!!

Before putting your vehicle into drive. Press the brakes softly. You will feel your brake peddle go much further down. After about 2-4 presses, your brake pads will become firm. Make sure your brake peddle feels firm before ever placing the vehicle into drive. With out using the gas peddle, make sure your brakes are working properly. 

It is best to properly “break in” your new brake pads. 

Multiple places will offer different procedures, but many times these can be very dangerous and just not worth the risk. 

Only after you confirm your brakes are working properly. Your want to make about 4 long slow downs  from 35-45 miles per hour. You don’t have to come to a complete stop from 35-45mph but you want to ensure a steady slow down. 

After about 4 times of doing this you you want to do this agin a bit more aggressively.

There are other recommendations that suggest you go from 60mph+ to 15mph quite aggressively several times. But, I find this too dangerous and just not worth the risk. 

Other Articles You Might Find Helpful

• Save Money At Advance Auto Parts
  • This Article is great you can save a ton and never pay retail again!

The post Replace Brakes & Rotors On A GMC / Chevrolet appeared first on Your Free Mechanic.

This is the same For the E-150/250/350/450

This Procedure is very similar in other vehicles. Usually the only thing that changes is the location of the blower motor. Some may be more difficult to access. 

On the Ford E-Series the Front Blower motor is pretty simple to change.

Costs

This Blower Motor MSRP from Advance Auto Parts is $91.99 + Tax but I paid $65.26 + Tax and received about $6.90 rewards credit towards future purchases. 

You can click here to learn how to save money at Advance Auto Parts!

Tools Needed 

• Test Light
• Ratchet
  • extension
  • swivel (makes it easier)
  • socket sizes
    • 8mm
    • 10mm
    • 13mm

I have changed plenty of these on this the Ford E-Series and this takes me about 20-30 Minutes.

Step One – Diagnosing 

Even though this tutorial is on how to replace the Blower Motor Let’s make sure that it needs replacing in the first place. Some of these steps in diagnosing may seem a bit obvious but they may be a bit easy to over look. 

1. Make sure you check the vent controls on all settings, low, medium, and high. These blower motors have a resistor and sometimes when these go bad only certain speeds will not work. If air begins to blow though the vents at any speeds, usually this is the resistor failure. 
2. Check all the fuses. 
3. With a test light make sure that there is ground and power at the blower motor connector (make sure the vent setting are set to ON). 

Using a Test Light Check For Power and Ground at the Blower Motor Connector.

It is Important to check both because a ground wire can also be broken causing the blower motor not to work.

Step Two – Replacing the Blower Motor

This procedure is the same for most Ford E-Series.

1. Remove the battery. 2 Terminals(2 10mm bolts just lose do not remove completely) and Battery holder(1 long 8mm bolt).

2. Remove the 4 (13mm) bolts that hold the battery Tray 

3. Remove 2  (10mm) bolts that hold the A/C Drier. This just helps let you get the blower motor in and out easier. The fins on the blower motor are plastic and the extra room keeps you from putting force on them. (don’t drop the bolts they can fall in a difficult to reach area)Also do not force the Drier too much. You do not want to break an A/C Line.

4. Remove the blower motor connector and rubber vent tube to the motor. 

5. Remove the 8mm bolts that are around the Blower Motor.

6. With out forcing or bending the fan blades, remove the old motor from the vehicle. Note you may need to turn and angle the motor a bit to find just the perfect position that motor comes out. 

7. Make sure that the new and old blower motors are the same. Your want to make sure the fins on the blower motor are facing the same way. You also want to insure that the connector are the same. Note that there may be some differences in new parts. But, make sure that the connectors and screw holes are the same. 

Here you can see that the connectors look a bit different. But, the plugs ends are the same.

8. Now that you insured that the new part is the correct one. Place the seal on the new motor. This is like a large sticker that only fits one way. So, make sure that you line the holes and shapes properly. Also remove the rubber vent hose from the old motor and place it on the new blower motor.

9. With out using force place the new blower motor into position and replace all the 8mm bolts that hold the blower motor in place. Remember it only fits one way, so you may need to turn the blower motor to make sure all the holes line up. Also do not force the Drier too much. You do not want to break an A/C Line.

10. Replace the 2 10mm bolts that hold the A/C Drier. (don’t drop the bolts they can fall in a difficult to reach area)

11. Connect the Blower motor and rubber vent hose. 

12. Replace the battery tray(4 13mm bolts), battery (2 10mm terminals), and battery holder (1 8mm bolt)

13. Enjoy your A/C!

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